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Archive : Mexico

The city of Mexico (Tenochtitlan) has several unique qualities among capital cities: its vast size and great altitude; its situation being built over a lake that is the sole habitat of the axolotl; the evident sinking of many major buildings; and the fact it is a colonial city that completely replaced the capital of a native kingdom.

Mexico Cathedral.
The Zocalo by moonlight.
Mexico Cathedral.
Mexico Cathedral. Mexico Cathedral. Mexico Cathedral.
'Here were the houses of Montezuma until 1521'. Façade of the cathedral. The cathedral from the rear.
Statue of Cuauhtemoc, the last Aztec king, who reigned briefly after the arrival of the Spanish. Atrial cross outside the cathedral incorporating skulls from the Aztec tzompantli. One of the cathedral towers.
The cathedral. The altar of forgiveness. The cathedral lantern.
The organ. The quire (coro). The altar of the kings (1718).
The cathedral was begun in 1573 (replacing an earlier church) on a plan common to many Spanish cathedrals (e.g. Seville, Salamanca, Segovia), and retains some late gothic features. However the overall impression is the heavy baroque of Herrera also seen at the Escorial. The coronations of Mexico's two post-independence emperors were held here.
The Sagrario (literally tabernacle), built from red tezontle (1749, Lorenzo Rodriguez). South façade of the Sagrario. The Sagrario.
Baroque door of the Sagrario. East façade of the Sagrario. The Sagrario.
The Palace of the Marquis of Apartado. The National Palace. The National Palace.
The Great Temple of Tenochtitlan. The Great Temple. The Great Temple.
The Great Temple of Tenochtitlan was constructed in 7 stages from the 1300s until the conquest in the 1520s. It was great pyramid crowned by temples to Tlaloc and Huitzilopochtli. Its location was forgotten until it was rediscovered in 1913 and excavated in the 1970s.
Serpent head. Serpent head and brazier. The tzompantli - a platform for a rack of skulls.
House Of The Eagle Warriors. The chacmool. The Temple Of Ehecatl.
A giant maguey (from which pulque and mezcal are made) in front of the College Of San Ildefonso. Terrifying depiction of Mictlantecuhtli, one of the Aztec gods of the underworld. An eagle warrior.
The Tlaltecuhtli stone, found in 2006. The Coyolxauhqui stone, found in 1978. Carved skulls marking the tzompantli.
The House Of The Sun And The Moon. Santa Ines. Church of La Santisima (1755).
The Academy Of San Carlos. Santa Teresa La Antigua (1684). Façade of La Santisima.
The College Of San Ildefonso. Church of La Ensenanza (1772). Interior of La Santisima.
The College Of San Ildefonso. The Palace of the Counts of Santiago De Calimaya (Museum Of Mexico City). The Palace of the Counts of Santiago De Calimaya.
Christ's College (Caricature Museum). Aztec carving built into the Santiago De Calimaya palace. San Miguel Arcangel (1690).
Santo Domingo. Santo Domingo. The Old Customs Building (1729), with the Palace Of The Inquisition on the left.
The Palace Of The Inquisition (1732). The Palace Of The Inquisition. The Palace Of The Inquisition.
Church of St. Felipe Neri (1714). The Noche Triste memorial. Church of St. Hipolito (1599).
The Noche Triste took place in 1520 during the conquest of Mexico by Cortes. The Aztec Emperor Montezuma had been killed (it is disputed by whom) and many Spaniards were slain leaving the city. The monument shows the legend of an Aztec farmer being taken by an eagle to warn Montezuma of the danger he faced.
Church of St. Felipe Neri. The upper house of parliament. Iturbide Palace (1779), home of Agustin I (briefly Emperor of Mexico).
Convent Of St. Francis (1710). Convent Of St. Francis. Convent Of St. Francis.
The House Of Tiles (Azulejos). The House Of Tiles. The House Of Tiles.
National Museum Of Art and statue of Charles IV of Spain. The School Of Engineers (School Of Mines, 1797). The lower house of parliament (Donceles Palace).
Library of the Supreme Court. The Gran Hotel. Art nouveau aviaries of the Gran Hotel.
Atrium of the Majestic Hotel. The Gran Hotel. The Juarez monument (the first native president of Mexico).
Church of Santa Veracruz (1759). Statues outside the Palace Of Fine Arts. The Bank Of Mexico.
The Palace Of Fine Arts.
The Palace Of Fine Arts. The Palace Of Fine Arts. The Palace Of Fine Arts.
The Palace Of Fine Arts was begun in 1904 by the Italian Adamo Boari and completed after the revolution by Federico Mariscal (hence the art deco interiors).
The Palace Of Fine Arts. Mural by Siqueiros. The atrium with a mural by Siqueiros.
The atrium. The atrium. The atrium.
The Monument Of The Revolution (parliament building started under Porfirio Diaz but left incomplete by the revolution). Palace Of The Postal Service. Palace Of The Postal Service (1907, Adamo Boari).
The Monument Of The Revolution. Palace Of The Postal Service. Palace Of The Postal Service.
Chapultepec Castle. Chapultepec Castle. Chapultepec Castle.
The standard of Cortes. Mural by Gabriel Flores in the main staircase. The gallery.
The emperor's coach. The malachite room. The viceroys of New Spain
Monument to the Battle Of Chapultepec (in the Mexican-American War that resulted in Texas and California becoming American territory). The view from Chapultepec. National Museum Of Anthropology.
Replica of the Temple Of Quetzalcoatl in Teotihuacan (see below). The Great Goddess of Teotihuacan (Chalchiuhtlicue) standing in front of a replica of the Palace Of The Butterflies. Replica of the Palace of Atetelco in Teotihuacan.
Replica of a doorway at Hochob. The Aztec Sun Stone (discovered in the Zocalo and displayed for many years at the cathedral). Copy of Montezuma's headdress (the original is in Vienna).
Replica of a Mayan temple. Olmec head (San Lorenzo collosal head 6). Huastec priest.
The terrifying belltower of the new Basilica Of Guadalupe. The Railway Museum (formerly La Villa station). The Railway Museum.
The new Basilica Of Guadalupe with the Virgin Of Guadalupe on display. The new Basilica Of Guadalupe (1976, Pedro Ramirez Vazquez). The old basilica and the church of the Capuchin nuns.
The Basilica Of Guadalupe (1695). The Basilica Of Guadalupe. The Capuchin church (1792).
The Basilica Of Guadalupe. The Basilica Of Guadalupe. 'Conversion of the Indians'.
The Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to a native Mexican, Juan Diego, in 1531. The various churches on the site have been constructed to venerate the miraculous image of the Virgin that appeared on Diego's cloak.
The Pocito Chapel (1777, built over a miraculous well). Ceiling over the well. The Pocito Chapel.
The Chapel Of The Indians (1649), where the image of the virgin was originally kept. The Pocito Chapel. The Pocito Chapel.

Teotihuacan is a vast ruined city, north of Mexico City, which was already abandoned when the Spanish arrived. Its peak was around 100 AD, when the Roman Empire ruled Europe, pre-dating the Aztecs of Tenochtitlan from whom we get the name Teotihuacan.

Teotihuacan.
The Temple Of Quetzalcoatl. The Temple Of Quetzalcoatl. The Temple Of Quetzalcoatl (several chambers were recently found underneath, containing liquid mercury).
The Palace Of The Butterflies. The puma mural. My doctor had stern words afterwards.
The Palace Of The Butterflies. The Palace Of The Butterflies. The Palace Of The Butterflies.
The vast citadel.
Looking up the Avenue Of The Dead.
The Avenue Of The Dead stretches for over a mile, reduced from its original length of three miles.
The Pyramid Of The Moon stands at the end of The Avenue Of The Dead.
The Pyramid Of The Moon and its plaza. The Pyramid Of The Moon. The Pyramid Of The Moon.
The two great pyramids. The Pyramid Of The Sun. People climbing the Pyramid Of The Sun.
The Pyramid Of The Sun is 65 metres high and 260 metres wide, making it shorter and wider than the Great Pyramid at Giza. Nearly 2000 years old, Teotihuacan's pyramids
are contemporaries of the Colosseum.
The Pyramid Of The Sun. The Avenue Of The Dead. Teotihuacan.

Merida was founded as the capital of the Yucatan (independent of Mexico) by Francisco De Montejo on the site of the Mayan city called Tiho.

Merida Cathedral. Merida Cathedral. Merida Cathedral.
Merida Cathedral was begun in 1562, making it one of the oldest in the new world, and a contemporary of the cathedrals of Segovia and Salamanca (where Montejo was born) in Spain.
The former bishop's palace (Peninsular Atheneum). Passage Of The Revolution. The Governor's Palace.
City hall. Casa Montejo (1549), with a statue of the conquistador (whose family lived here). Casa Montejo.
The church of Jesus. The church of Our Lady Of Mount Carmel. Palacio Canton.
The old train station. St. James' Church. The church of La Luz Del Mundo.
The railway museum. Hotel Mision Merida. Hotel Mision Merida.
Colonial street. The judicial office. Classical house.

Chichen Itza is a former Mayan city constructed between 700 and 1000 AD, during Europe's dark ages, making it a contemporary of monuments such as the Palatine Chapel in Aachen. Around 1200, the inhabitants were defeated by people from Mayapan and retreated to Lake Peten Itza where they were the last Maya to be conquered by the Spanish in 1697.

A note on nomenclature: the Mayan names for individual structures at Chichen Itza and other sites have been lost to time, and so here I use the colloquial names (translated from Spanish).

The Castle, or, the Pyramid Of Kukulkan.
The Castle. The Castle. The Castle.
Arch. Base of the Castle. Head of the feathered serpent, Kukulkan, at the foot of the Castle.
Temple Of The Warriors. Temple Of The Warriors. The Thousand Columns.
The Tomb Of The Chacmool, or, the Platform Of Venus. The Tomb Of The Chacmool. Temple Of The Large Tables.
Unknown structure. Platform Of The Eagles. Platform Of The Eagles.
The tzompantli (skull rack). The tzompantli (skull rack). The Observatory (containing a spiral staircase).
Temple Of The Bearded Man. The Upper Temple Of The Jaguar (overlooking the Ball Court). The Ball Court.
The goal. Carvings along the Ball Court. Edge of the Ball Court.
The Tomb Of The High Priest. The Tomb Of The High Priest. The Tomb Of The High Priest.
The Nunnery. The Red House. The Red House.
The Nunnery. The Nunnery. The Nunnery.
The Church. The Church. The Church.
The Church. The small figures inside the niches represent the gods of the four cardinal directions (armadillo, snail, turtle, crab). The Nunnery Annex.
John Stephens relates that the locals had a superstition that music could be heard on Good Fridays in the Church - the most ornate building in the city.
The Xcajum cenote. The Xcajum cenote. Iguana.

Uxmal is a former Mayan city lying just beyond the rim of the Chicxulub crater (believed to be caused by the asteroid that wiped out the dinosaurs). Like Chichen Itza, the city was constructed between 700 and 1000 AD, and then it was gradually abandoned, only to be rediscovered after the Spanish conquest. The city is not supplied by any water source and so relied on underground storage in chultunes.

Uxmal.
The Pyramid Of The Magician. The Pyramid Of The Magician. Doorway in the form of the rain god Chaac (Tlaloc).
The Pyramid Of The Magician, also known as the House Of The Dwarf, gets its name from a
local legend told to John Stephens, who braved the garrapatas to explore the city with Frederick Catherwood in 1840.

There was an old woman who lived in a hut ... who went mourning that she had no children. In her distress she one day took an egg, covered it with a cloth ... until one morning she found the egg hatched, and ... a baby, born ... in one year it walked and talked like a man; and then stopped growing. The old woman was more delighted than ever, and said he would be a great lord or king.

One day she told him to go to the house of the governor and challenge him to a trial of strength ... indignant at being matched by the dwarf, the governor told him that, unless he made a house in one night higher than any in the place, he would kill him. The poor dwarf returned crying to his mother, who bade him not to be disheartened, and the next morning he awoke and found himself in [The House Of The Dwarf]. The governor, seeing it from the door of his palace, was astonished, and sent for the dwarf, and told him to collect two bundles of coyocol, a wood of a very hard species, with one of which he, the governor, would beat the dwarf over the head, and afterward the dwarf should beat him with the other. The dwarf again returned crying to his mother; but the latter told him not to be afraid, and put on the crown of his head a tortilla de trigo, a small thin cake of wheat flour.

The governor broke the whole of his bundle over the dwarf's head without hurting the little fellow in the least ... The second blow of the dwarf broke [the governor's] skull in pieces, and all the spectators hailed the victor as their new governor.

The Quadrangle Of The Birds. Faces of Chaac. Faces of Chaac.
Macaws sculpted in the frieze. The Quadrangle Of The Birds. View of the pyramid.
Uxmal.
The Nunnery Quadrangle.
The north side of the Nunnery Quadrangle (Temple Of Venus). The north side of the Nunnery Quadrangle. The north side of the Nunnery Quadrangle.
Looking east. Faces of Chaac (north side). Inside the north building of the Nunnery Quadrangle.
The western side of the Nunnery Quadrangle. Faces of Chaac, the feathered serpent Kukulkan (Quetzalcoatl) and a hut (western side). The western side of the Nunnery Quadrangle.
The face of Chaac over a hut, and a naked man (western side). Ruler enthroned below feathers (western side). Faces of Chaac surrounded by rows of snakes (eastern side).
Many of the buildings of Uxmal are decorated with the face of the rain god Chaac (equivalent to Tlaloc), with his easily recognised hooked nose. The western side of the Nunnery Quadrangle has the most elaborate decoration including an enthroned ruler and the feathered serpent,
Kukulkan (equivalent to Quetzalcoatl).
The eastern side of the Nunnery Quadrangle. The eastern side of the Nunnery Quadrangle. The south side of the Nunnery Quadrangle looking towards the Governor's Palace.
Stela with Mayan hieroglyphs. The Nunnery Quadrangle from the south. The ball court.
Turtle frieze. The House Of The Turtles. View of The Pyramid Of The Magician.
The Governor's Palace.
A stone thought to be a phallic shrine. A ruler adorned with feathers and surrounded by snakes and faces of Chaac. The Throne Of The Two-Headed Jaguar (uncovered by Stephens and Catherwood).
Triangular Mayan arch in the Governor's Palace. Inside the Governor's Palace. Faces on the Great Pyramid.
View of The Pyramid Of The Magician from the Governor's Palace. The Great Pyramid. The Great Pyramid.
The Dovecote. The Cemetery. Tzompantli in the Cemetery.

Kabah is just 2 miles from Uxmal, to which it is connected by a ceremonial road.

Kabah.
Hundreds of faces of Chaac on the Codz Poop. The Codz Poop. The Codz Poop.
Noble statues on the rear of the Codz Poop. The Great Palace. The High Temple.
Carved discs. Mayan hieroglyphs. Carving of a skeleton.

Tulum is a small walled Mayan city 80 miles south of the tourist resort Cancun.

Tulum.
The Castle. The Temple Of The Frescoes. The Great Palace.
The House Of The Cenote. The Castle looms over the beach. The Temple Of The Wind.
Cancun. Cancun. The Temple Of The Scorpion (in Cancun).
The Nichupte lagoon.